HAPPY NEW YEAR!! i don't think i could have ushered in 2005 in a more extraordinary yet offbeat way. i brought elgrey to a friend's barbecue party, held at the top of one of valparaiso's outer hills. fifteen germans were also in attendance, transforming the evening into one of babel-like linguistic chaos. as midnight neared, our host herded us down the street to the home of family friend, whose light-bedecked patio boasted the most breathtaking view of valparaiso by night. the entire bay and surrounding mountains were laid out before us, laced by the glow of chile's coastal cities, from valpo to viña del mar to reñaca and beyond. stationed at various points across the bay, seventeen barges loaded with fireworks awaited their debut. at the stroke of midnight, we welcomed in the new year amidst a confusion of spanish, german, and english, hugs and wine, and a spectacular 20-minute pyrotechnic display that engulfed the entire landscape. welcome, 2005. may this year be one of peace, discovery, and healing.