alvaro, stef, and i spent the afternoon gawking at the perito moreno glacier, a monstrous river of ice so vast, it swallows up an entire mountain range. visiting the glacier was an incredible audio-visual experience: enormous chunks of ice cleave off the main body and crash into the river, then bob back up with such force, equally spectacular secondary and tertiary splashes are produced. even when the falling ice is out of sight, the continuous deep thunder of their breaking and impact can be heard from afar, resounding somewhere in the pit of your stomach. the glacier is almost hypnotizing in its immensity; it is far more vast than the eye can fathom. to add to the otherworldly experience, the tremendous shards of ice that splinter off seem to fall in slow motion. whenever you catch one being swallowed up by the water, the ground and air itself seem to shudder, and all your senses can't help but focus on that single movement as if it was the only living thing in the world. really, i can't think of anything more to say that can even approximate such a mindblowing experience. so this will have to do.