spent the last couple days trekking around the fitz roy and torres mountain ranges in el chalten, an area at the northern end of argentina's glacier park. if you are looking for awe-inspiring patagonian scenery, this place will not let you down. although the region is normally windy, rainy, and shrouded in thick clouds, i managed to catch it during a series of picture-perfect sunny days. according to the park ranger, this type of weather rarely ever occurs. people wait for months at a time for a clear view of the famous peaks. i was thus really lucky to view some rare and magnificent mountain vistas, both from afar and up close. i'll post some photos as soon as i get back to santiago.

the trails i took led right up to the feet of the glaciers, where pristine lagunas of varying colors, whether ultramarine blue or dusky green, had formed. quite a reward for hours of hiking: being able to take off your shoes and rest your feet on the shores of a glacier lake, while jagged andean spires just a few hundred meters away tower over you. the park certainly makes you work for it, though...its trails involve some steep and sustained inclines. but it's worth every blister.

next stop: torres del paine! after several thousand hectares of damage, it looks like the fire is under control and the park has reopened. i've met up with stef and alvaro (they stayed in el calafate while stef got over a badly-timed cold), and our bus leaves tomorrow for puerto natales. till then!