ironically, san pedro de atacama has a much more "end of the world" feel than ushuaia. it's literally smack in the middle of nowhere, and surrounded by windcarved desertscape as far as the eye can see. upon entering the town, you feel like you've gotten lost in an old western. all the roads in town are unpaved, and the dimly lit storefronts and restaurants are basically just dusty facades with a few walls. (since it rarely rains, roofs aren't all that necessary.) nevertheless, san pedro is always abuzz with activity, and can actually be quite fun for a night out on the town, if you're looking for a congenial atmosphere, cozy adobe fireplaces, and, oh yeah, lots of tourists. i rather dig this place.

once you leave town, however, the area begins to feel more like a sci-fi flick. today i rented a mountain bike and set off for the valle de la luna, a national reserve a couple hours' cycling from san pedro. it's exactly what it sounds like: an eerie stretch of seemingly lunar landscape (complete with twisted canyons, precarious rock formations, and white ridges encrusted in crystallized salt) that is bathed in red by the sunset. sitting on a sand dune and watching the colors fade over the valley is the closest i think i'll ever get to visiting mars. biking back to san pedro with nothing but a headlamp to cut the ensuing darkness, however, is a harrowing experience that i would rather not repeat.