Leaving the Mainland
Chiloe is only accessible by ferry. After an overnight bus trip down to Puerto Montt, we finally made the crossing.
Chonchi
I arrived in the fishing community of Chonchi, where my friend Ana is doing her doctoral/fulbright research.
Isla Lemuy
Across the waters, surrounding islands occupy the horizon.
A Good Start
We kicked of my time in Chiloe with steamed mussels at the municipal market.
Ana
Ana studies the experiences of independent local fishermen as more and more make the transition to becoming salmon farm laborers.
Palafitos
Next stop...Castro, the capital city of Chiloe. It's famous for its precarious "palafitos ," or stilted houses, which allow people to dock their boats at home during high tide.
Lonely Boats
A couple of vessels resting on calm waters outside the town.
Iglesia San Francisco
Castro's main church. Chiloe is known for its unique and creative wood-shingled churches. UNESCO has named many of them World Heritage Sites.
Inside
The churches are made entirely of wood, and with much artisanal skill.
Verdant Views
I was fortunate enough to catch quite a few sunny days. Chiloe is evidently even more lush and green during the winter, when it rains for months on end.
Under Construction
A boat awaiting repairs on the shore.
Dinner at Martin's
Ana and I were invited over to her friend Martin's new home to dine with his family.
Volcán Michinmahuida
On clear days, the striking Andes can be seen from Ana's yard. There, on the horizon...can you spot the volcano?
Hopscotch
A chilote navigates a maze of boats on his way back to land.
Off to the Islands
To reach the smaller island of Quinchao, I had to take yet another ferry from Dalcahue.
Ferry Friends
Although the trip is short, there's always time to meet new people!
How Bucolic
Curaco de Velez, the first town on the island, bears many examples of charming chilote architecture.
Los Troncos
The town is also home to a beachside oyster shack that, hands down, serves the best oysters I have ever consumed in all my life.
Ostras y Vino
The oysters are enormous and freshly harvested from nearby beds. You can spend however long you want here, ordering them at whim.
Se Venden
Shell garlands were also for sale. One is now hanging off my apartment balcony.
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