Curanto
I convinced a cook to fix me a special platter, half "curanto" (assorted shellfish and meats pulled from a stew) and half "yoko" (barbecued pork), both very traditional chilote dishes.
Placid
The Mar de Quehui is really a sheltered bay ringed by islands.
Footbridge
I crossed this rickety bridge while exploring Los Angeles.
Milcao
Women prepare batches of "milcao" --- large, pork-stuffed dumplings of deep-fried potato bread much loved in Chiloe.
Chancho y Más
A man pulls deep-fried pork skin from the barbecue pit. It will be chopped up and used to stuff the milcao. Yes, that's twice deep-fried...chilote food is not necessarily the healthiest.
Music
The children of Quehui performed a series of songs, each one devoted to a breed of potato grown on the islands. I had no idea tubers could inspire so much music.
Las Papas
Chiloe is evidently proud of its potatoes, of which it boasts more than 214 colorful and misshapen varieties. The island is rumored to be the original source of the world's potatoes.
Silver Sunset
I rode back to Castro on another lancha. At one point, we had to stop off at a police boat to drop off a babbling drunk man. There seems to be no shortage of them here...
Fairy Tale Island
In the light, the islands take on a pure and surreal quality, as if they were plucked straight out of a children's story.
La Cabaña
Ana's secluded cabin, which is perched on a hill overlooking the water.
Cazuela
She fixed me an amazing seaweed cazuela with assorted chilote potatoes. Each had a different flavor but all were delicious. (...from the quantity of meal shots, you can tell I am a little obsessed with food.)
Parque Nacional Chiloe
Chiloe's National Park lies on its wilder, less-inhabited Western side, which is buffeted by Pacific winds. Most islanders (except some indigenous groups) live near the sheltered bays in the East.
It keeps going...
The beaches were vast and empty when I arrived. Multi-tiered waves were rolling in...you could barely see the water for the foam.
Dunes and Cliffs
I couldn't believe I was the only one out there to see this.
Gonzalo y Cecilia
These two campers drove by and rescued me from a swarm of bloodthirsty colihuachos (enormous, persistent horseflies that pursue you no matter how fast and far you run).
Lago Cucao
I ended up spending the rest of the day with them. We relaxed by the freshwater Lake Cucao, hiked a couple short trails, and played with their feisty puppy Matilda.
Andes from the Ferry
This photo does no justice to the view, since it doesn't capture the mountains as well as the naked eye can. The Andes are so tall down south, they can be seen crowning the entire horizon even at this great distance.
Fjords of Puerto Montt
I stopped by Puerto Montt before leaving the region. Over the bay, mountains shoot straight out of the water, forming a maze of fjords. A kayaker's dream.
Painted Body
An exhibit of "Cuerpo Pintado" airing in a plaza. It featured some vivid and creative works.
Puerto Varas
Snapped through a bus window as we sped back to Santiago. I think these peaks are the Osorno and Calbuco Volcanoes. The dirty glass adds a rather ghostly effect to the image...but I kind of like it.
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